What We Cooked and Ate (Week 42)

This Week's Eats:

Chicken and chickpea soup (Kalyn's Kitchen)

Chocolate pumpkin muffins (Sally's Baking Addiction)

Relief society casserole (365 Days of Slow Cooking)

Sourdough granola bars (Sourdough oat bars) (Somebody Feed Seb)

Southwest spaghetti squash bowls (Budget Bytes)

Noteworthy Repeats:

Egg bake casserole (Food 52)

Freezer Pull-Outs:

Soft pumpkin sourdough bread (Drive Me Hungry)

Sourdough gravy (The Pantry Mama)

Ireland and Scotland Trip: Cultural Differences and Parting Thoughts

This was certainly the trip of a lifetime AND I am glad to be home. I am drinking my own water (albeit less nice than the fresh tasting tap water we had in Scotland), having ample access to toilets (ahem, bathrooms), sleeping in my own bed, and navigating my own shower with more ease. Adventurous as travel food is, I am thankful to be back home eating regular "normal" meals filled with fresh fruits and vegetables. Europe was not that different, but it was. Let me share some interesting things I noticed on our travels:

In Ireland

Ireland seemed to have a focus on sustainability. Many homes had solar panels on the roofs, but I thought it was rarely sunny? Most restaurants used bamboo silverweae and gave cardboard (instead of styrofoam) containers. There were a lot more cans than bottles. Bottles had a hinge built it to hold on the water bottle cap.

Kids were going to school after 8 AM. Most wore uniforms. Lots of people rode busses, but I also saw lots of foreign automobile brands: Peugeot, Renault, and Skoda, to name a few. People drove very close. (The streets are very narrow.) I saw no accidents, however.

Servers at restaurants did not really come back after taking orders and delivering food. We learned quickly to ask for pitchers of water for the table when we sat down. No one offered to split checks at the end of meals. Ever.

I saw sourdough twice in Ireland. Once it was the sourdough doughnut. The second was bread for our "toastie" sandwich.

Thought Ireland seems healthier than the US overall, many people in Ireland smoke and vape. I didn't think that the cigarettes smelled as bad, but still. Neither of those are good for you. Is this habit because it's cold there, or culturally accepted, or ?? I did not smell a lot of marijuana, as I do in the US, but I was told drugs are still an issue.

Walking paths are ample. I saw few e-bikes and scooters. I did see a few, though. Most bikers wore neon vests or shirts of some sort. Most walkers wore headphones, more over the ear than discreet like AirPods or earbuds. I saw lots of people running in Ireland. Most ran with their phone in their hands. I saw Asics shoes the most. Most people in Ireland do not wear sunglasses. Most dress warmly, and wear sturdy shoes (NOT tennis shoes, though I am glad we had our Hoka Cliftons).

Language was definitely different. "Biscuits" were crackers and cookies. Chips were fries. Takeout was "takeaway." Bathrooms were "toilets." Towing was "rescuing." Parking lots were "car parks."  The "f" word was common. The city was very multicultural, but in some parts of town, it was obvious who was out of place.

Overall, people were very nice, though!

In Scotland

What is it with smoking? Aer Lingus sold cigarettes on the flight there. Passengers were not allowed to bring hot drinks on board, I don't know why. 

Our hotel, well, left something to be desired. It smelled a bit dank. We did not get a washcloth. There was only a furnace (with no temperature gauge) for heat. We had no refrigerator. The king bed was very firm and seemed to be made of two twin mattresses put together. The hotel was also far from most things we wanted to do, not the worst, but not the best. 

Every time I visited a website in Ireland or Scotland, I got a popup asking me if I wanted to reject cookies. The Walmart app worked, but not Safeway. Wordflower stopped working.

There were very few toilets, and those available required paying. The toilets we did visit mostly had hand dryers instead of paper towels. Many of the restrooms did have lotion with the soap. What does that say?

I saw sourdough twice here. Once, I saw it for sale in a gift shop on our Discover Scotland tour. The second was at lunch for my mother-in-law's tea. Both times, it had old grains and/or seeds and nuts in it.

Language was still different here. Everyone used the word, "wee" a lot. Potato chips were "crisps." Lines were "queues." Sweaters were "jumpers." Windshields were "wind screens." Semis were "lorries." Wide load was "abnormal load." I saw a little more aggressive driving, traffic, and honking here, but still no accidents.

We saw a lot of wind farms in Scotland. (I understood that more after our cold, wet day in Edinburg.) The history is very gruesome. The culture was very superstitious overall. The country as a whole seemed more melancholy than Ireland. Although I did not see it, our tour driver also told us drugs as a big problem, especially in Glasgow.

Parting Thoughts:

Given that I did get sick in Scotland, I think the travel time was a little too long (or at least for my stamina at the moment(. It is easy to hop from country to country in Europe, but is it worth it if I am exhausted? Many people in our family loved Scotland. I favored Ireland. Maybe it was the weather and my experience. I will only know if I go back.

Europe was cool, but I still want to visit all fifty states. That also seems like more accessible travel. My husband loved traveling internationally, however, so I would guess both will be in our future.

While I have lots of pictures and memories from our trip, now that I am back, I do wish I had picked up a few more little things to enjoy once we got home. Sure, the food and snacks are great, but those will run out. A few mugs or something might have been nice. Will I think that in a few years, though? Who knows. For now, we need to settle back into this life and figure out how to save for future adventures!

Churches (or Not!) of Scotland

I am used to identifying churches by their steeples. Well, in Scotland most of the buildings I identified as churches were not. 

This first one, Church of Scotland, Calder Parish church was.

And I spotted a church next to what we thought was a church (One Church):

But it turned out to be a funeral home, and we sort of crashed the funeral, jumping sidewalks just as the bagpiper started to play to release the hearse. We jumped sidewalks quickly and I didn't get a photo.

And then we saw these church-looking buildings housed apartment homes.

We didn't make it over to see if this spire was on a church, or something else.

We saw a few spired buildings on our Highlands tour.

Our tour bus parked near Sts Peter and Benedict Roman Catholic Chapel.

Edinburg had lots of spires, but I only identified some as churches:

St Giles Cathedral

St Columba’s Free Church

We saw a very small chapel (St Margaret's Chapel) up at Edinburg Castle.

And then a few churches walking home from our ride on ScotRail:

Bellshill St. Andrew’s United Free Church of Scotland

Bellshill and Bothwell Parish Church West Halls (but the actual church building was for sale?)

I stopped taking pictures of churches repurposed for other things [like The Hub in Edinburg-gorgeous, but no longer a church (Edinburg International Festival, n.d.).

Props to Scotland for repurposing famous buildings, but is this indicative of spiritual decline in the country? Because that would be even sadder than letting some church buildings go into disuse. Building won't last forever. Souls will!

Postscript: Indeed, the above is true. In 2022, the Census showed that 51% of Scotland's population claimed "no religion" (Carrell, 2024). Catholicism, Church of Scotland membership, and Christianity are all falling. Sad times for a nation with such a rich history of seeking after and following God-or is that what it was? Maybe it was religion, not relationship, which once again is very said in terms of eternity.

References:

Carrell, S. (2024, May 21). Majority of people in Scotland have no religion, census shows. The guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/article/2024/may/21/majority-of-people-in-scotland-do-not-believe-in-any-religion-census-shows

Edinburg International Festival. (n.d.). History of The Hub. https://www.eif.co.uk/festival-guide-2/history-of-the-hub

International Travel Adventures: Day 11

I woke up this day feeling much better than I had any day in Scotland so far, but...I had almost lost my voice. I still don't know what took me down. Was it something in the room, as I originally thought? Or did I catch a bug? I don't know. It started with a scratchy throat and nasal congestion at night Sunday, then progressed to that headache that woke me up Monday night, left me achy Tuesday, questioning if I could go on Wednesday, and then moved to laryngitis. So strange. I think I was just run down and needed to get home, and homeward bound we were.

I started the day with a walk on the treadmill. I never did figure out how to do anything more than quickstart, so I walked three miles at six kilometers an hour and went back to the room. I got ready and didn't feel like breakfast, but knew I needed something, so chugged some water and ate an apple and a protein bar. Those protein bars were lifesavers, and since I ate so many of them on the trip, my outgoing baggage was much lighter than my incoming baggage (even with a few souvenirs added). Win!

We departed the hotel at 8:30 AM in a chartered van. We could have tried to take a cab to ScotRail, ScotRail to a tram, and the tram to the airport, but that would have taken hours, and been a lot of luggage hauling. The van was expensive (I don't even know how expensive, because my father-in-law generously booked it for us), but worth it. It meant a calmer start to the morning and much less energy expenditure to start a long day.

It took us a little while to get through security and we had about 40 minutes before our flight started boarding. This flight was not too bad. We got two seats together in row 43, and we had our carry on bags this time. (I would have rather checked, or gate-checked them, but they did not give us that option, and we did not want to spend more money.) The food was not what was on the menu, but it was decent. My only complaint was pasta salad with a pasta entree. I gave my husband the pasta salad and gladly ate the three cheese tortellini with tomato creme fraiche, peas, and leeks. Thank goodness for some vegetables. I tried to see where the tiramisu came from, and I think it was from Italy. I am generally not the biggest tiramisu fan, but I figured I could use the energy, because I hoped to try to get my body back closer to US time, and would therefore need to extend time between this "lunch" and dinner. 

The airline served Mediterranean pizza twist and and cookie squares dessert shortly before landing, but I saved that for later. I did drink a cup of coffee at 5 PM Scotland time/12 PM Boston time. I hoped that would keep me awake for the afternoon and evening so I could try to sleep when we finally got back home to Arizona.

My cellphone SIM card turned back on once we touched down on US soil, and my phone blew up with something like 64 text messages. I had been getting iMessages on WiFi, but not text messages. In the future, I think it was worth the $20 or something we paid for my husband to have a e-SIM. We were trying to save money, but that is pocket change compared to what we spent on the trip as a whole, and would have been worth it to keep up with our group, text, etc.

We walked a long ways to get to passport check at Boston airport. They asked if I had agricultural products. I honestly admitted that I had one apple. I offered to throw it away, but they said, "No." Instead, they directed me to the next man, who wrote, "apple" on a sticky and sent both my husband and I to another checkpoint. Again, I offered to throw away the apple, but they gave me the, "You can't bring this in," lecture, told us we had to scan our bags again, and then finally took it from me. Sorry. But...I was honest. If I had forgotten the apple or lied about it, would they have caught it?

After that debacle, we had to recheck our bags to Phoenix, and then get from the A to the E terminal. After getting turned around, we finally got there, after walking 0.75 miles. I know because the auto-track on my watch turned on. At least this walk was above ground so that we could occasionally see Boston sights out the windows.

We got to our A gate about three hours before boarding, and I once again sat in the Boston airport and worked on writing vacation blog posts. I did this in 2024, but this time hoped our flight would not be delayed. We would have been traveling over 17 hours if the flight departed as planned. But alas, we faced delays, two hours to be exact. Two hours too long. I was drowsy and tried to sleep before drink service, woke up and couldn't sleep, so started listening to my audiobook, only to fall asleep and need to rewind the next day to catch what I missed. 

Thankfully, our luggage came quickly, as did our Waymo. We arrived home shortly before midnight UK time. We unpacked. (All of our breakables survived. Thank you Lord!) We showered off the 20 hours of travel and tried to sleep. I got a little less than four hours, and my husband a little less than six. I felt very thankful we came back with a few days to readjust before heading back into the work week.

Scotland Adventures: Day 10

This was a rainy day (and I underestimated it)! We caught a cab to the train stop, and from there, took ScotRail into Edinburgh. Once off the train, we stood in awe of the architecture. Look at this Sir Walter Scott Memorial! (We learned what it was later.)

We met a tour guide at St Giles Cathedral, and from there traversed up the hill to Edinburgh Castle. We learned on this trip that most castles are built on old volcano plugs. That was the case for this one. And as is the case for things on a hill, it was cold and windy up top. Although I was wearing a long-sleeved dress and a jacket, I was more than happy to receive and wear my husband's rain jacket. What I really wished for was a hat and a scarf!

The castle was interesting. Basically, we learned that the queen had a lot of power. Queen Victoria said that the castle did not look "castle-y" enough, and so they added the front gate in 1887. She also did not think the castle had enough power, so they brought in naval cannons, cannons that were never even fired. The only firing gun is a gun shot off at 1 PM every day to help ships keep time. (Well, it was in the old days, but now I think it is just for remembrance sake.) The castle's governor's mansion houses the major general of the Scottish military. The castle is also home to military barracks. (We saw multiple uniformed soldiers walking around.)

The oldest building at the castle is the Chapel of Edinburgh/St Margaret's Cathedral built in 1130. The newest is the National War Memorial, built in 1920. The latter is a very somber place, housing the rolls of all members of the military who have died. No pictures were allowed here.

The great hall houses a ceiling built only of wood (no screws or bolts). It was pretty fantastic. The castle also houses Scotland's crown jewels. No photos were allowed there either, and we skipped this due to the lines.

Our tour guide was quite the hoot. He thought that Sheboygan was in Michigan. (It's in Wisconsin.) It seemed pretty clear that he was giving a scripted talk. He laughed at his own jokes. I learned some history, but really would have rather heard more talk about the castle.

After the castle, we walked to the Caledonian Hotel for afternoon tea. This was the one thing my mother-in-law (MIL) wanted for her birthday, and boy, did we jump through hoops to get there. First, they could not find our reservation. Then they said they did not have afternoon tea and could only bring us lunch. Finally, after we got seated and I pointed out a tray of what looked like tea sandwiches going by, My MIL again asked for the tea menu and they gave it to her. She was so excited, and I was so happy for her!

I was feeling under the weather, so I got soup instead of the full tea service. My MIL was nice enough to share a few of her treats, however. The staff even brought her a "Happy birthday" plate at the end. It was special to see a table of three ladies next to us celebrating one of their birthday's that day as well. September 30th is a good day to be born, I guess!

We stopped by a Starbuck's (hoping my MIL could get her free birthday drink--no such luck--she needed the UK Starbuck's app). Then we walked back to the ScotRail stop. We went up, down, and around to find our platform. Thankfully some ScotRail staff told us not to take the first train, but to wait for the second. After about an hour, we were back the Bellshill station, but no taxis, and no one to call them.

We walked into town, but saw the traffic lines and decided walking would be faster than calling a cab, waiting for it to weave through that traffic, and then take us back to our hotel. Plus, we didn't even have the taxi service number. It was about a 1.4 mile walk back, and we were tired, but we made it. I stayed in the hotel room the rest of the night, consolidating, packing, and repacking because Thursday was departure day.

Scotland Adventures: Day 9

Whew! This was a long day. We traveled almost the whole of Scotland. (The longest road in Scotland is about 400 miles, and we drove a lot of it.) I still didn't feel well. But nevertheless, the trip must go on.

The day started with a cab ride at 6:45 AM from the hotel to the bus station. There, we grabbed some food (and paid to use the bathroom). Then we got on the Discover Scotland bus with about 10 other people. Our trip was to be Loch Ness, Glencoe, and the Highlands. Immediately, we took to our guide, Harry. Originally from Ireland, he told us that he came to University of Glasgow to study history, then got his masters in historical building inspection, married a Scot, and decided to stay. He was so personable, and so knowledgeable, truly the best guide.

As we left Glasgow, we learned that Glasgow is the largest city in Scotland, with 25% of the country's population.

Most of Scotland's castles, are built on old volcanic plugs: Dunbarton, Stirling, and Edinburgh. Scotland is known for its whiskey distilleries, and it shows. Distillery fungus from ethanol rich air makes trees and buildings black. Only the Ben Nevis and Dalphinne distilleries constantly pain their buildings to keep them white. Others just let the black, black. In other distillery history, Ballentine's used geese as guards after their German Shepherds were too friendly and easily bribed.

We saw so much beauty as we traveled. First up, we came to Loch Lomond, a large "lake" with 20-30 islands on it, including Wallaby Island. Fresh water lakes began as glacial lake, which is why Scotland had good tap water. Harry gave us time to get coffee and walk around at Loch Lohmond a bit. I tried a flat white for the first time and highly recommend!

As we drove higher, we learned that timber is a large export from Scotland. Norwegian pine grows quickly. Scots pines have a blue tinge. Scottish heather is purple for only 10 weeks of the year, and we were there for some of them! Tyndrum is the only gold mine in Scotland. Munroe has mountains over 3,000 feet. Mountains with a rounded top are called bans. Nevis means "head in the clouds" and Mt. Nevis is called that because it is most often partially covered by clouds. It rains some part of the day 80% of time in the Highlands, but God blessed us with a very clear day, and we could see most of the mountain this day! It only rained a little on us on the drive back.

The Highlands bog does not support sheep or really any other permanent life, and is therefore home to a lot of unique flora and fauna. Trout are the main fish in the lake. Roe and red deer are common. There are only 24 pairs of peregrine falcons (one in Glasgow). Wolves and bears were hunted into extinction, now the badger is the largest carnivorous animal. 

Highland coos (cows) are the oldest breed of cows in the world. Males have thicker horns that point away from their faces. Females have thinner horns that point straight up. A herd eats 10 tons of grass a day. They are used for meat, not dairy. Farmers started selectively breeding for the ginger color because Queen Victoria preferred it.

There are five ski resorts in Scotland. Glencoe is the oldest. Scotland is famous for the West Highland Way 96 mile hike, and we saw lots of people out on the trail. Apparently you can through hike, or have sherpas take your bags from town to town. A lot of Scotland's industry is tourism, national and international, it seems.

Mid-morning, we took in the Three Sisters Mountains. We had to climb about 20 rock steps to get this view, but isn't it amazing?

At the Highland Soap Company toilet stop, I took a side jaunt to see Inverlochy Castle. There are castles everywhere in Scotland. So cool!

We got stopped at a ship crossing before getting to Loch Ness. The road literally opens and closes to let ships through. This only took 10 or 15 minutes, however.

Loch Ness is the biggest body of water in England, and we spent most of our stopped time here. I don't really believe in Nessie, but some people do. A man named Stephen Gallagher quit his job and moved to Loch Ness in 1991. He has been looking for her ever since. Naysayers say Nessie might be a big eel. I would tend to agree.

There is an old Benedictine monastery at Loch Ness. It is now apartments, but still impressive.

The place was pretty mobbed, and we grabbed take out sandwiches at Cobb's Cafe for lunch. They were not the best food we had, but food. 

My husband got an ice cream cone afterward. (I was way too cold, but did take a bite.) I noted that the ice cream seemed to have more ice crystals. My husband attributed it to the high humidity. After a few hours at Loch Ness, we started our journey home.

We learned that only 4% of people live in the Highlands. Approximately 5.5 million people in Scotland, but it is home to 6.5 million sheep. No wonder we saw them everywhere!

Gatehouses designed to be small and “show off” outside the castle. There are now such high taxes on castles and estates that many people sell them, or split up dwellings into holiday homes, etc. to help pay bills.

We got a chance to feed Highland coos on the way back. (I abstained.) 

It was cold and rainy and I decided to go back to the bus early to eat leftovers from lunch and chill. We hit a bit of traffic on the way back, but made it by about 7:30 PM. Then we taxied to our hotel, making it there by about 8 PM. Such a long day, but worth it!

Scotland Adventures: Day 8

Well, the hotel might not have been the nicest, but it did have a nice gym attached! I actually managed to find barbells to use for my PT-prescribed strength routine. I might have been one of only three women in the club, and the only one in the barbells section, but oh well. I just did my thing and moved on. I did get to see the sun start to rise.

Breakfast at this hotel was not included, so I ate in the room. Good thing that I packed a lot of food. It's come in handy. (Well, it's not exactly true that breakfast was not included. It came at a cost of 13 pounds, or about $17 US money. I figured eating my own food was cheaper.) I just hoped I could get "real" food at least once this day.

We debated about what to do. My mother-in-law and husband's aunt decided to go into Glasgow. We were still trying to work out conflict from the day before, and decided to stay behind and see if we could walk to the next town, Coatbridge. There are awesome (and wide!) paved paths from city to city. We did walk about eight miles total, but we saw some cool things along the way.

We stopped in at an Aldi for some oats shopping.

We tried to find some churches. (More on that in the churches post.)

We walked a long way home.

I saw quite a few kids out, which made me wonder about school. It turns out it was a bank holiday.

We debated about dinner. I had advocated for going to McDonald's, as it was so much cheaper than the hotel restaurant (where entrees started at 19.95 pounds, or almost $27 USD). We didn't want to walk after all our morning walking, though, so we nixed that. My husband heard about fried pizza, so we decided to try a delivery app for New Mamma Mia Takeaway.

My husband ordered the pizza crunch (breaded and deep fried). It was okay. All of the food got a little soggy from being shoved hot into closed boxes that got taped shut before delivery.

I didn't know exactly what I was getting when I ordered the "10" grill box." The menu said, "Chicken tikka, donner meat, aloo tikki, chips, chicken chaat, veg pakora, chicken pakora, seekh kebab served with salad & sauce and naan bread." I ordered the pakora sauce (Glasgow style), which Google described as "a creamy, cooling blend made with yogurt, ketchup, and mint sauce that balances the heat of hot fritters." I didn't order fritters, but yogurt sauce sounded refreshing. Somehow I also ended up getting a spicy sauce, and man this was good! I probably ate a whole day's worth of calories in one sitting, but oh well. It was vacation, and I needed food. Others in our group did not enjoy this meal so much, but for me, it hit the spot!

Somehow in the food shuffle, we did lock our one hotel key in the room. We visited with some nice local friends of my mother-in-law before trying to resolve that issue, though. Thankfully the front desk nicely gave us another key and we were all set. Phew! We had another adventure for which to prepare!